Om Lars Lein, Lordehytta og Lord Garvagh III sin skildring fra Hol og Ål 1872

lars lein

Lars Reinton forteller følgende om Lord’ Garvagh: «Lord’ Garvagh d. y., ‘ungelorden’, var fødd 1852. Han var i fyrstninga saman med faren, men etter at denne var avliden, vart han sjølv ‘Lorden». Han hadde før ei viss tilknyting til Noreg, for mor til kona hans var norsk, fødd Kierulf. På turane sine til Hol tok han mest inn i prestegarden. Presten Leganger fekk fleire gonger bøker frå han til jol som takk (N. F. Leganger). Han lærde seg litt norsk, men snakka ofte løgleg bakvendt. Han flutte hytta ved Vollevatna til holmen i Øljuvatnet, og bygde hytter i Fødalen, på Klævafjellet, Saupsengjo og i Folaskardet».

M. Borrelly skriver i Den norske turistforenings årbok 1926 dette om Lord Garvagh den eldre og Lordehytta som han fikk oppført: «Raggsteindalen er en stor aapen dal, som i en længde av 5—6 km. strekker sig vestover fra Faugellifjorden og opover mot Hallingskarvet. Høiden er ca. 000 meter over havet, men trods dette skulde man tro, at man befandt sig langt nede i bygden saa fager er dalen med sine bjerkelier og frodige beitesmarker. Folk har ogsaa bodd her fast for ikke længe siden. Før var der meget ren i disse trakter. Saaledes  hører vi at lord Garvagh i 1880 aarene ofte var paa renjagt i Raggsteindalen sammen med sin stadige følgesvend Lars Lein hos hvem lorden pleiet at ta ind før hytten i Follarskaret var bygget. Lars bodde paa Leine sæter, som vi passerer paa turen over Strandefjorden, og hvor man endnu kan se det lille rum,hvor lorden residerte. [].

garvagh den eldre
Kilde foto: Reinton

Lordehytten er opført vaaren 1880 av nævnte Lars Lein. Den bestod av tre rum: kjøkken, spisestue og soveværelse, og skal ha været meget smukt indrettet. Her var det lord Garvagh den yngre likte sig bedst, og her tilbragte han som regel en længere tid av sommeren og hadde ofte venner paa besøk fra England, men mere end 10—12 aar har hytten ikke været benyttet, da lorden siden begyndelsen av 90 aarene ikke mere kom til Follarskaret. Siden har hytten staat ubebodd. Den har været allemands eiendom. Farendes folk har brutt sig md og tatt sig til rette, og benyttet vægger og panelinger til brænde. Væggene mellem de forskjellige rum er nu helt borte. Det eneste som disse vandaler har skaanet er en av de indre dører, hvorpaa lorden har malet endel bibeiske sentenser. Han skal nemlig ha været meget religiøs. Det ser ut son om disse bibelsprog har virket beskyttende paa døren, som staar opstillet paa den ene Iangvæg. Saa er turen kommet til gulvet, som har lidt samme skjæbne som dører og vægger. Halve taket er ogsaa væk, og av det engang saa smukke inventar er nu intet tilbake. Ellers er hytten i behold. De tykke. solide murer har i alle disse aar trodset tidens tand paa dette veirhaarde sted, ca. 1600 meter o. h. og derfor synes jeg noget burde gjøres for ialfald at holde hytten vedlike saa den ikke gaar helt tilgrunde».

kart ragg
Kart tegnet av M. Borrelly.

Reinton skriver videre: «Lordehytta i Folaskardet vart bygd kring 188o. Beste venen og hjelpesmannen hans i Hol var Lars Lein. Han skreiv 26. januar i 88o i eit brev til lorden mil, a.: «Kjære Lord Garvak. Tak For dine Tvende Brev Som jeg Haver Fået Fra dig, voraf jeg Ser at de er Rask og Frisk, og Det Sam ere vi . . . Din Telt Haver jeg Bekaamet og Bringet Til Leein, Jeg Holder nu på og Kjøber Materialer til Huset på Følaskalet, jeg Ser at jeg Behøver Flere Peinge. . . Saa er du paa det Kjeligste Hilset Fra os Ale Heer i Lain, Lars Larsen Lain.’

Lordehytta i Folaskardet har stade toleg heil like til det siste, no tek ho til å forfarast. På dørene har einkunna lesa bibelspråk, som lorden let måle på, — han var religiøs, seiest det. For namnet hans var John, og han vilde jamt at dei skulde kalle han Jon Felaskarde. I den tjørna som ligg i Folaskardet, hadde han ein seilduksbåt. — Nokon jeger var han ikkje. Han var dårleg til å gå i fjellet, — han stupte rett som det var i steinane (Ola Raggsteindalen). Han hadde mange rare innfall og idear, blandt anna at veden til Folaskardshytta plent skulde berast og ikkje køyrast eller klevjast upp. Ein gong kom han upp til Lein like fyre jol, og vilde spiku upp i Folaskardshytta joleftan, for å vera der i jola. Han vilde ikkje vera i Lein um natta, han måtte burti Dalen (Raggsteindalen) Det vart eit spel få han uppi hytta. Han vilde ikkje bruke ski, og snøen var djup og laus. Det måtte gå ein mann på kvar side og støa han. Men uppe i Folaskardet var det slikt eit ver at det bar ikkje til å vera der meir enn eit par dagar. So drog dei nedover att. Dei måtte då dra han på ein skikjelke, og han fraus forderva føtene, so dei måtte tine dei uppatt med snø. Han vart sinna då dei brukte snø, — han var skamfrosen nok før, sa han. Men då han kom til dokteren i Ål sa han at han kunde takke Lars Lein og kuren hans for at han berga foten.

lordehytta

Han hadde nokso mykje drikkevarer med seg uppe i fjella, heiter det. På ferdene sine og i fjella skreiv han dagbok, og etter desse dagbøkene skreiv han sia ei bok som han gav ut i London i 1875, «The Pilgrim of Scandinavia». I 1872 drog han upp i Bakkehellerhytta seint på hausten, den 30. april, fortel han i denne boka. Gamle Knut Rishovd skulde møte han uppe i fjella, men det var snø, det vart ein slitsam tur, so Knut kunde ikkje greie å vera med, so gamal han var. Dei gjekk på ski. Bakkehellerhytta var 12 fot i firkant. Lorden hadde nokre bøker der, fortel han sjølv, eit dansk leksikon, soga um Peter den Store og «Poems of Ossian». Lars Lein var med på denne turen (i boka er han berre kalla Lars). Mange dagane kunde dei ikkje vera i hytta på den tid av året. På vegen nedover att stansa lorden på Gudbrandsgard. Han kunde då litt av dialekten, so han kjende seg rett heime på Gudbrandsgard, seier han; han tok på seg hallingklæde, — blå sokkar, sko med sylvspenne i, knebukser, skinnvest og ei trøye som likna på dei dei brukar i Eton, berre at denne var blå og hadde sylvknappar på sidene framma, på hovudet ei luve, ei slik som bøndene ber for å halde hovudet varmt, som heng ned på sida», — altso ei pikkhuve. I 1873 kom han til Hol att. Me finn han ved hytta si, han sit og skriv i dagboka. I ei tjørn like ved har han ein båt som han kallar Baldur, seier han. Sundagane kom det gjæslegutar upp frå stølane lengere nede med molter og mjølk. Litt etter finn me han i hytta på holmen i Øljuvatnet. Di ror i land og er på reinsjakt, men det er skoddever og bitande kaldt, det er so vidt dei finn att hytta in the lake ”Olia Vatni”. Men ein dag fekk dei teft av rein. Lars «put his finger on his mouth», dei stilte over stein og haugar, so børsene slong på ryggen. «There they were!» «Eg valde meg bukken,» seier lorden; men ikkje for hadde eg fyrt, so braka det og laust frå Lars», og flokken spratt frã kvarandre og vart burte over ei sno-bre. Lars sa han skaut midt i flokken, og det viste seg seinare, seier
lorden, ‘dat kula hans hadde stroke burti hornet på bukken min». Dei forfylgde den såra bukken og fann han bak ein haug. Der var det ei lett sak for lorden å felle han. Lorden let hornet av bukken sende beinast til London. Der skulde det pryde the inside of a London house in Portman Square», seier han.Etter alt å døme var det kula til lorden som streifa horna og kula til Lars som såra dyret. For dette er truleg same soga som i bygda forteist soleis:
«Ungelorden var ikkje nokon god skyttar, og Lars Lein var leid for alle dei reinane dei miste. Ein gong lorden hadde fått sikte p ein reinsbukk stelte Lars seg bak han og skaut i same augneblinken som skotet til lorden small, — og bukken datt. Då dei kom framtil, viste det seg at bukken hadde to skothol. Lorden undra seg over det; men Lars fann ut at kula måtte ha gått gjennom ei fald i huda, so det vart to hol! Lorden let prege ein medalje til minne um dette meisterskotet sitt! Lorden hadde ei djup naturkjensle og var glad i fjellet for fjellet si eigen skuld. Han finn vakre uttrykk for denne natur gleda i boka si. Det originale og underlege i hans hug slo ut i sinnsjukdom til slutt, heiter det. Han døydde i England 1915. So lenge det er att rester av hyttene deira i fjella vil lordane bli hugsa og umsvalla i Hol.» Folk og fortid i Hol. 2 : Frå 1815 til vår tid, Lars Reinton, Grøndahl, 1943.

pilgrim 2

Fra The pilgrim of Scandinavia – Published 1875 by Garvagh, Charles John Spencer George Canning, baron, 1852-1915, Publisher London, S. Low, Marston, Low, & Searle:

«Tuesday October 1st.—Piercing cold and
dreary. Left at ten o’clock. Reached Aurdal
somewhere about four.» This latter place was
a kind of village, even more remote, and
situated very beautifully on a level where the
gorge was wider and the river flowed without
that deafening noise of which I had begun to
feel very weary; for until now that river had
been one succession of cascades, owing to the
great height of these mountains, which were only
accessible by the one pathway, very steep and
winding, that we have been following two
days ; and have now arrived at the height of
several thousand feet above the sea. Here we
shall have to send for the old deerstalker, who
lives a whole day’s journey from this place (not
that I entertained any hope of killing reindeer
now), but because he was wanted as a guide
over the passes. So here we have to wait, as if
detained in prison, with nowhere to go, nothing
to do, and scarcely enough to eat, besides,
what was more painful still, no occupation
for the mind. But here as a consolation the
scenery was of surpassing magnificence; atmosphere
so clear as to resemble that of the Engadine
; pine forest on every side, stunted, but of
great extent ; overhead, enclosing us, the loftiest
summits of this range completely covered with
snow; while the log cabins, which were to be
my abode, gave it an appearance of tranquillity
and home comfort, together with an appearance
of life^ which this dread winter was unable to
dispel.
» Life ! I know not what thou art,
But know that thou and I must part:
Yet when, or how, or why we met,
I own to me is a secret yet.
Life ! we have been long together,
Through pleasant and through cloudy weather.
‘Twere hard to part with friend so dear;
Perhaps, ’twill cost a sigh, or tear.
Then steal away! give little warning.
Say not good-night, but in some happier clime
Bid me good-morning!»
Hans now entered into my project of walking
from here over to Christiania ; but Edelinck, the
other man, I had to dismiss, also his horse with
him.
»
Wednesday 2nd.—No appearance of Knudt
(the old Huntsman). Climbed the rocks to see
if he were coming. Am deeply gratified by the
surrounding scenery, but find it empty. Am
depending on these Norwegians, and have to
wait their time, wasting the days away. But
they have been a long time Norwegians, and it
will be a long time before they be any other kind
of people.
»
Thursday 3rd.—Saw the village inside as
well as out. Examined sledges, tried snow-shoes.
practised the use of them. Got into more than
one bag made of reindeer skins, which these
people sleep in when upon the chase. Heavy
fall of snow. I made a blazing fire !

Friday 4th.— Still a prisoner. Remained
faithful to the same log cabin, and made it comfortable.
Same haunch of reindeer meat. Made
a fire of juniper, which crackled up at once, and
left a strange but very agreeable perfume. This
evening, behold! Knudt came, the old stager,
and all the hamlet assembled round my fire to
meet him. Heaped on more logs, to make a
blaze, and more, to take off the attention of the
people. We were surrounded.»
This trusty Yager (or huntsman) had been in
the service of my family for many years. When
his late master was no longer able to walk in
pursuit of the reindeer, during the last year of
that master’s life, this old servant would bring
out the sledge; and when my father was comfortably
seated, would guide his horse over all
the places where it was possible for a horse and
sledge to go, in the heart of the reindeer territory,
wherever any had been killed in former days.
And now, while the tones of his voice, which
were familiar, rang out by this fireside, they felt
like some well-remembered echo of the past—
like some commanding echo, sweet and clear,
from mountains eternally guarded by this everlasting
ice and snow ; on oases of which, so far
as he was able to remember, this grand old fellow
had commenced his life, and on which he was
prepared to end it. Our meeting here was joyous,
but moderated in expression, from his lifelong
familiarity with danger ; while his words, the only
words he uttered for some time, «Velkommen
til Norge,»were followed by a silence in which
no one spoke, and the tear was there upon his
cheek, as he continued, without moving where
we stood, to hold my hand.

Saturday 5th.—More snow. Stupendous
mountains bar the way—impossible to pass
them while it lasts. I am become the slave of
a cowardly solicitude, lest, in the heart of this
dread winter there lurk the seeds of disappointment
to my vehement desire, of gaining the
opposite sea. But I do not submit.

Sunday 6th.—Turned out a lovely morning.
Aided by the old man, I formed my company,
and four able fellows, two natives of the place,
Hans who came from Urland, with Knudt himself,
who came from dear knows where, provided
themselves with snow-shoes, one sound pair each,
with one also for myself, to be used whenever we
should gain the table-land above.» This village
or hamlet of Aurdal being close under the level
of perpetual snow, its inhabitants understood by
nature the use of these contrivances and how to
make them ; going over trackless snows, where
they have practised it since childhood, as it were
» like a streak of greased lightning !» The snowshoe,
or «snae ski,» is eight or ten feet long,
consisting of a simple plank of the Norwegian
pine made narrow, fastened at the middle bytwigs
over the boot, pointed and turned up at
one end right ahead, to prevent it catching anywhere
; the same kind of thing is pretty generally
used by every tribe or nation above a certain
latitude right round the globe.
At this lonely cluster of habitations, the last
day of our detention passed pleasantly enough ;
but towards evening, when the sun had set, a
thick mist rose upon the place extending far and
wide. I turned in early to be ready for next
morning, feeling sure the day would come out
bright and this fog pass away ; but so thick was
it now that not one single object could we see
outside the door. Still it was the last night of
my imprisonment. To-morrow I had determined
to escape, let Fortune do her worst, and all the
elements combine to block the way. It happened
the last moment before turning in, that I
looked out of the window; and there, where
nothing had been visible before, at somewhere
about twelve yards’ distance, black with a kind
of transparent hue, there stood, or appeared, or
showed itself, a deep shadow. Thinking it might
be a parting of the mist, I watched a long while,
but in vain—the shadow never spread. I made
no remark to the old man, who was still in the
room, but before leaving me that night I told
him to look out of the window; and he saw,
in the same direction, the same thing. What it
was, he said, with no slight agitation—speaking
under his breath—might be secretly explained,
by there having been buried underneath that
very spot, in unconsecrated ground^ ever since
this gloomy solitude had become the scene of
human habitations, the bodies of their dead !

Monday, October ‘8th,—The mist has gone
entirely, completely cleared away, and left no
traces. But the clouds that have risen from the
gorges of these mountains form a close canopy
above, and hide the sun.» Five in number, we
crossed the last of those rude bridges that span
the winding torrent; frail, rickety, made of
timber, and the rocky pathway led us upward,
still higher, still wider remote from the habitations
of mankind. At twelve o’clock however
we halted,- at an isolated farmhouse, just a roof
and four walls, which had been deserted for the
winter, only used in summer by the shepherds,
who at the same time bring their wives and families
to this and many more such temporary houses,
calhng this kind of house a » Saetter.’* Here
we all turned in, rested a bit, held a consultation,
and partook of the same refreshments;
but the cold was so freezing and intense we
found it impossible to wait. I lost no time
in getting into motion. Stembergdalen (the
name of this hovel) was the termination of the
actual ascent; from thence our way continued
onward over trackless wastes, interminable and
dreary, with nothing to be seen henceforward far
and wide but everlasting snow; save here and
there some gloomy lake, which was invariably
frozen over. Up to this time, as the path had
been always more or less distinct, we had each
kept some distance apart, in single file, myself in
advance, the old man bringing up the rear ; but
now he was called forward, we all kept near
together, and he pointed out the way. The
snow was in good order for this first part, so he
gradually fell behind, and I went on until summoned
by a halt—it must have been some three
hours afterward—when all collected by a rock
which had no covering of snow, and Knudt the
old huntsman, still hale and hearty, wonderfully
upright for his age, pointed out to each one by
what sloping valleys in the snow, frozen lakes,
and isolated rocks, the unseen path now lay.
But this very same Knudt, the man I chiefly
depended on, had evidently seen his best days ;
and now humbly implored me to let him return,
declaring it was utterly impossible for him to go
on—in fact, there was no help for it. Unable to
bear the least insinuation that his strength was
no longer the same, this old fellow had set out
with me, regardless of his own safety, and resolved
if possible to follow ; so that now, after some
deliberation while I also gave him orders for the
summer following, we parted, and on taking
leave he kissed my hand.
We watched this old man of the mountains
retire gradually in the distance, but soon saw he
began to walk away unsteadily, as if tottering,
and wholly past his work ; therefore I very soon
despatched one of the party who remained to
help him, support his steps if necessary, and
see him safely home. –
After this may be dated the commencement of
our troubles ; to lose two men, half my company,
was a movement for which I was wholly unprepared.
Hans knew the way, having been up
before on some business in one of the stone huts,
where I had formerly stayed for deerstalking, but
not in winter ; and in the event of crevasses^ the
smaller our number the greater would naturally
be our danger. Landmarks at this season of the
year are covered up ; what was worse, the snow
became softer as we went on, and very deep.
We sank in it up to our waists.
The only present remedy was in snow-shoes;
these were immediately strapped on, and while
the way continued over level snow we made
considerable head. But now daylight began to
fail, and the hut was known to be not less than
four hours’ distant. Twilight came on, and the
appalling monotony of these dreary wastes, with
nothing but vast regions of snow visible on
every side, became evident upon the faces of
my men, which reflected the vacancy of this great
scene, while their eyes, like those of dead men,
wore a stare as if searching into empty space.
» And here on snows, where ne’ver human foot
Of common mortal trod, we nightly tread,
And leave no traces. For the savage sea—
The glassy ocean of the mountain ice—
We skim its rugged breakers, which put on
The aspect of a tumbling tempest’s foam
Frozen in a moment.»
So, like those witches who speak thus in ‘ Manfred,’
for ever onward, forward, where no creature
that had hfe was ever able to continue or exist,
we slided, we glided, far into the night. Frozen
lakes appeared in front—appeared on either side
—ghastly to look upon, frightful, horrible. And
I felt as if gazing on that frozen region of the
‘Inferno,’ where the faces of the departed stare at
one from their place of punishment or living
burial in ice, to challenge whosoever may
pass by.
Our rapid progress came however to a miserable
end, when Hans, going over some pieces of
rock he did not allow for in the darkness, contrived
to snap one of his snow-shoes ; making of
course the other one comparatively useless and
himself unable to keep up. I called a halt ; and
myself setting the example, gave the word to
remove all snow-shoes from the feet, which was
obeyed with an implicit, soldier-like obedience.
Here we rested for a bit to eat and drink, while
darkness was increasing, but Hans declared there
was no doubt about the way.
» Forward «again presently, we rose and tried to get along, but
here was a wretched struggle. Floundering deep
in the snow sometimes we stuck, sometimes one
getting on ahead would disappear, while each
man struggled for his own life. Oaths and
curses in their language filled the icy air of
night; while the hoarse word of command was
given, shouting one by one, to keep together—
to be ready any moment with a hand, keep each
other in sight and not be separated by this
treacherous darkness, lest any one might sink into
a chasm. At every few yards we rallied, guided
by each other’s voices, rested a little while and
then pushed on once more. In momentary expectation
we should soon see something of the
hut, I frequently, whenever some rocks of any
size came near the way, rushed at one as it were
with open arms—only to recoil, withered and
blasted by the galling disappointment, like a
man who has been cheated of all he ever hoped,
believed in^ or lived for, to find it only a bare
rock!

Time went on. We have already been twelve
hours on foot, and must have given up in blank
despair ere this, only that Hans recognised his
way and said the hut was somewhere close at
hand. What should be our joy, when too exhausted
to give signs of it by shouts, but the
sight of a bleached and wooden doorway, on the
face of a black hill just above; here was our
destination, here at length was to be the wandering
spirit’s rest ! On getting up to it, however,
we found it frozen tight ; but that was a trifling
matter, and the present writer was let down into
it through the skylight, by a rope tied round
under his arms ; landed on the table, and from
that station arrived in safety on the floor. The
application of a good sized boot upon that door
soon sent it flying open, and my men came in.
We shook hands all round, lit a blazing fire—in
fact two fires, because there was a German stove
also—and as if it had been in the bosom of
Mount Hecla fed the flames, by chopping
timber with iron implements, axes and hatchets,
like anvils with resounding noise—while the
outside was covered with snow !
Tuesday, October 8th,—We found the hut very
comfortable indeed. This hut, by way of explanation,
is only one of several that were built
by the writer’s father and predecessor as boxes for
the season when stalking reindeer ; they are from
fifteen to thirty miles apart, and command access
to the reindeer of this whole territory, for he
knew their chief places of resort who built these
huts to live in. Of this one, by name Baccahella,
the stone walls were four feet thick ; had twelve
feet square of space inside, stones uncemented but
well lined with reindeer-moss, and I slept on a
bed of the same. To eke out a subsistence
whenever there might be no venison, as the sport
was extremely uncertain, here were on the shelf
whole tins of soup, and meat preserved, besides
lobsters hermetically sealed, and on the ground—
a dozen of champagne ! These comforts (the
champagne was Montebello) are taken up on a
sledge beforehand, being sent out from England
in the spring, and conveyed here—likewise also a
supply of timber from the forest—when the sriow
is hard. Not to neglect the mind, here was also
some pabulum mentis^ in the shape of a Danish
dictionary (very interesting, but sent me to sleep),
a ‘ Life of Peter the Great,’ and the ‘ Poems of
Ossian;’ which same poems of Ossian, even if
original, have no great signs of intellect, and
left me in a state of mind that one who reads a
long-continued record of wars, conflicts, murders,
killing one man here, another man there—unless
he is able to keep it up—must inevitably feel.
When Cairbar, who has already killed Cormac in
Temora «shrinks before Oscar’s sword! He
creeps in darkness behind a stone ! He lifts the
spear in secret ! He pierces my Oscar’s side.
Their eyes roll in fire. See gloomy Cairbar
falls ! The steel pierced his forehead, and divided
his red hair behind. But never more shall Oscar
rise. His spear is in his terrible hand! ‘I hear
the noise of war.’ A thousand swords are half
unsheathed. We first arrived. We fought.
We saw Oscar on his shield. We saw his blood
around, &:c.» Here are ^zao ancient worthies
killed at once, falUng by mutual wounds.
The canteen and bed valise intended for use
here which had come all the way from Iceland,
were sent away yesterday with Knudt and his
companion, my other men each having his own
burden, compelling me to make shift on the old
things of last year. But Lars, one of the two
who remained, undertook to slide away upon his
wooden instruments and bring such necessaries as
I wanted for a short stay here, promising to return
in two days. So as the sun came out and the
weather became really fine, I let him go ; and
saw from the door, as he started, a whole flock of
ptarmigan get up, white as the whole scene, invisible
before, and only to be marked when settled
by their shadow which the sun cast on the snow !
In the course of that afternoon I went out for
a walk with Hans, and saw a bridge within easy
distance of the hut, where it had been built the
previous summer by my orders to enable one to
cross a torrent in following the reindeer ; found
it a simple wooden concern, all that was wanted,
but since then I hear it has been washed away.
Wednesday, October 9th.—Were shut in by a
howling winter hurricane, which swept the snow
high up all around about the hut, aitd threatened
to exterminate the light we had from that one
skylight on the roof. The hours went on.
While daylight lasted, Hans went about his
usual business, cleared away the dinner things,
chopped firewood, and spread the moss to make
my bed all tidy for the night ; lit my candle on
the table somewhere about five o’clock, and then
sat him down by the log fire. Outside, all was
trackless, windswept, a waste of interminable
snow :
» Where the traveller meets aghast
Sheeted memories of the past ;
Shrouded forms that start and sigh
As they pass the wanderer by;
White-robed forms of friends long given
In agony to earth—and heaven.»
Hans became pensive. Our little stone fortress
afforded inside a silence that was literally felt ;
broken only by the parting of his lips, which
periodically sent out smoke from the well-worn
pipe for his tobacco. We were feeling sleepy
from its fumes, when what should be suddenly
heard—enough to startle any mortal man—but a
noise outside the door, like some one rapping !
and whoever, or whatever it was, the rap was
unmistakable (it was evidently meant). On
opening the door, shedding a flood of hght over
the snow far and away, who should be our visitor
but Lars, true to his promise, as large as life, and
twice as natural, because there came with him
also another man, but on first entering both
looked more like those sheeted figures of the
past whom one would rather not detain, the
falling snow having adhered to them all over,
so as to make a white coat extra. The welcome,
however, that I gave them was a real one, and
if possible increased by their success, in bringing
me some well-filled bottles of fresh milk, a thick
blanket, and a couple of large salmon trout !
Thursday, October loth.—Emerging from

“Thursday, October 10th.—Emerging from
what might have been our tomb, we issued one
by one to face the trackless regions of deep snow
once more. This was between forty and fifty
miles from any village or town. Leaving the
hut early, already covered half way up, we did
not care how violent the wind when danger such
as burial within those walls now threatened our
retreat. Each with his knapsack, and carrying
at the same time his snow-shoes on one shoulder,
for the first part of this pathless tract we plodded.
Here the snow was not so deep, daylight more
over made a great difference, compensating for
the fitful gusts that, dead against our course,
drove the snow hard into our faces, freezing our
very teeth. Presently we came to a more level
district, each man quickly slipped on his snowshoes
and went ahead immediately for miles. So
it went on after this alternately, now level travelling,
now getting over rocks, in which case we
had to drag our snow-shoes with one hand,
wielding with the other hand a walking-stick, to
steady one’s descent from rock to rock. For it
was evident the other side would very soon be
reached, since the snow became gradually shallower
as we continued to get on ; descending by
degrees, but with nothing more in sight to guide
us than such mountains in the far horizon as
indicated generally what direction to pursue.
Yet here the views were strikingly magnificent.
Leaving behind us the two heights between which
Baccahella (the hut of last night) is situated,
Omsbraeen and Vargebraeen, both covered with
eternal snow, our course to-day lay downward
between Hallingskarven on one side, with Ulevasbotn
on the other, both in the far horizon.
By degrees the scenery put on more of a grey
aspect, where the blackness of the rocks showed
under a thin covering of snow, and in time there
appeared before us in the distance a vast sheet
of water not frozen, ^s the lakes had been entirely
until now. This was the lake of Strandafjord,
which we made early that evening and
put up at a farmhouse—the place where Lars
had contrived to get his fish, milk, blanket, new
pair of snow-shoes for Hans, &c., &c.—for here
we have gained what may fairly be called terra
firma.

Friday October 11th,—There being no occasion
to wait here, I chartered an open boat and
followed the direction of this considerable piece
of water so far as it went, between splendid crags
crested over with new snow ! On landing at the
other end I dismissed our third man, and went
ahead ohce more on foot right down a winding
valley—still upon the snow—to Guldbrandsgaard,
a thriving village, that appeared to be situated
exactly where the snow left off, and came in
there shortly after dark, once more among human
habitations.
From here we had for the first time a road to
walk on, to Christiania, all among deep forests in
the very heart of Norway; making the whole
distance, from the point of departure on the
Sogni Fjord to the above named city, one of 1 85
miles. Whoever would understand the difficulties
of this journey must consider not so
much the distance but the time of year, inclemency
of season, utter want of proper food,
and kind of country, so thinly inhabited, by
which I had to pass. Still we have now descended
upon the interior of Norway, and henceforward
I shall be, as hitherto, alone among the
natives ; so here I put on the costume, and came
out in blue stockings, shoes with buckles, knee
breeches, fur waistcoat, and a jacket samething
like that worn at Eton only blue, with silver
buttons on each side in front, while surmounting
the upper region was a cap, such as the peasants
wear, to keep the head warm and hang down,
whatever there might be to spare, upon one
side.
Speaking by this time the provincial also, I
became fairly domesticated in that house at
Guldbrandsgaard ; nevertheless, on ‘Saturday,
12th, proceeded to Aal, along the banks of a
mighty river, through deep forest. Towards the
end in complete darkness, passing by timber none
so huge in Europe. On foot this day for eleven
hours.» Once having got my men fairly out,
they went along. Strange to say, we saw no
wolves, nor any capercailzie, blackcock, hazelhen,
or other fowl so thoroughly described in
various books on Norway. Our route was entirely
upon the king’s high road, as it was called,
where all the carrioles drive up and down in
summer-time with tourists, for which reason I
refrain from giving the particulars of stopping
at each place, or describing any more of what
the public will not care to know. It was cold
even for the time of year ; notwithstanding this,
we had to cross lake after lake in open boats
which a month later might have been accomplished
without the sfightest obstacle by one
well-built sledge, and a pair of tame reindeer,
instead of having now to steer our course
between no end of floating timber on its way
to Christiania by the rapids.
It was in ten days after setting out from
where I put on the costume, on Monday,
October 21st, that we beheld the sea! the
Skager Rack, that arm of it called Christiania
Fjord”.

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